Discovering Paris’s Little India

By Paris School of Arts and Culture

Although it might not be as large as in some other global cities, there is a vibrant diaspora from the countries of the Indian Subcontinent in Paris. Different waves of immigration from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh arrived in France, mainly in the 20th century, after India’s Independence in 1947 and as of the 1980s as a result of Sri Lanka’s Civil War. They settled principally in the 10th arrondissement where today you can find a wonderful array of “cash and carry” food markets, good value eateries and shops displaying beautiful Indian clothing and accessories. 

Passage Brady Paris

Passage Brady

Originally built in 1828, this picturesque historic passageway has both a covered section, between rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis and Boulevard de Strasbourg, and an open air section which carries on until rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin. Overflowing with ambiance and aromas, it’s lined with Indian shops and restaurants, one more tempting than the next. You can get some great deals by making a reservation at one of these on The Fork website a day or two prior, we’re rather fond of New Delhi and la Reine de Kashmir!

 Little India

Although Passage Brady is very charming, there is a larger concentration of the Indian community in what is called “Little India,” an area located between Gare du Nord train station and métro La Chapelle. The higher you rise on rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, the more shops and restaurants you’ll pass. These continue on rue Cail, Louis-Blanc and rue Perdonnet. 

Little India is great to visit any time of year (come with an empty stomach!), however, the neighborhood truly comes to life during popular festivals like Holi (March, and another festival is taking place in the Jardin de l’Acclimatation in Bois du Boulogne on May 14), Ganesh Chaturthi (August/September, see temple information below) or Diwali (October/November).

Here are some restaurants we recommend in Little India:

  • Krishna Bhavan (24 Rue Cail, 75010): A must for vegetarians is this restaurant exclusively serving meat-free Indian cuisine. They also have a branch closer to the University in the 5th (25 Rue Galande, 75005).
  • Le Petit Veg (23 Rue Cail, 75010) – For completely vegan Indian food, come to this delicious restaurant.
  • Pondichery Restaurant (3 Rue Perdonnet, 75010) – In business since 1993, this cantine has some of the best prices in the area.
  • Muniyandi Vilas – From the outside this looks like a tiny takeaway place, however, you can also enjoy their great value and delicious Sri Lankan and South Indian specialities in their no frills dining area.

Manicka Vinayakar Alayam Temple

Built by Sri Lankan Tamils in 1985, this temple in the 18th district, north of métro La Chapelle, is dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the Hindu God of knowledge who has an elephant-like head and a human body. Lord Ganesha is celebrated during Ganesh Chaturthi, a lively festival held in August or September which includes a parade through the streets of the area and with activities at the temple.

Maison de l’Inde

Located at the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, the international student complex found in the south of the 14th district, la Maison de l’Inde was established in 1968. In addition to housing Indian and other international students, it organizes events open to the public throughout the year especially for traditional celebrations including the four-day Autumn Festival (Durga Puja), the Festival of Lights (Deepavali, held in October/November) and International Students’ day (Saraswati Puja).

 if you’re looking for further places to discover the multicultural facets of Paris, have a look at these other articles from our blog:

Top Photo: 15ème Fête de Ganesh, Photo: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra / Flickr

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