France is home to Europe’s largest African population, coming principally from North and Central Africa. There was an influx of immigration from Africa particularly following France’s second colonial empire post 1830. Through this article we are not attempting to retrace the history of French colonialism and postcolonialism, a complex subject which merits further study, but instead putting forth suggestions for you to discover contemporary African culture, food and fashion in today’s Paris.
The area that has in recent years been coined Little Africa is part of la Goutte d’Or and, like many areas of Paris, this is an example of a sub district within a district. The south part of the Goutte d’Or, around Barbès, is more linked to North African communities whereas the northern area, around Chateau Rouge, is more of a hub for Central African communities. This will be our focal point for this article.
Please note: if you’re taking photos of people, it’s best to ask their permission beforehand. We also recommend visiting the district during the day, it can be easy to get turned around in the back streets of the district in the evening.
Celebrations by Barthélémy Toguo / Info Paris
Château Rouge Metro
Your visit to Little Africa can start right in the Château Rouge Metro station, home to a ceramic fresco by the contemporary artist of Cameroonian origin Barthélémy Toguo. Entitled “Celebrations,” an ode to the neighborhood which also symbolizes vegetation and the birth of a new world. The tiles were made in the prestigious Sèvres ceramic manufacturer location in the south-western suburbs of Paris.
Rue Dejean Market / Goutte d’Or et Vous
Rue Dejean Street Market
This street market found near the Chateau Rouge metro station is overflowing with tempting food stands selling fresh produce, meat, fish and speciality food items from Africa. The lively street is a perfect place to enter the ambiance of the district.
African Beauty / Facebook
Rue Doudeauville
In addition to food (see more on this at the end too!), the Chateau Rouge area is especially known for its fabric and fashion shops. You can see where the local designers get their raw materials, or pick some up for your own creations, along this street. The fabric shops tend to specialize in wax-batik fabrics, a technique brought from Indonesia to Africa by Dutch merchants, which ended up becoming one of the continent’s most famed and prominent type of fabric. In addition to the colourful fabric, you’ll spot some great murals decorated the facades of this street.
Maison Chateau Rouge
Rue Myrha and Rue des Gardes
Afterwards come to these street to see the transformation of the fabrics into the creations of fashion designers. Here you’ll also find an array of local fashion designers who are helping African textiles and designs reach a wider customer base in Paris. Shops range from clothing made from recycled textiles to hand-crafted shoes and from ceramics to accessories. You can learn more about the street’s designers on their website, but don’t miss the Maison Chateau Rouge shop… and the next stop!
Little Africa Association
This wonderful multifaceted association is the brainchild of Jacqueline Ngo Mpi. Born and raised in Paris and with Cameroonian roots, this young community leader, writer and entrepreneur has helped put Little Africa on the map. Her tours of the area began garnering attention both near and afar. She also wrote two editions of Afrique à Paris: A City Guide to Black Paris, a fabulous resource of over 200 shops, restaurants, sites and other neighbourhood venues. You can pick up a copy at the association’s headquarters which also has an art gallery, workshop space and shop selling items by local designers, artists and artisans.
La Foret Noire
Grab a bite to eat!
You can finish off your visit to Little Africa by sampling some African cuisine at one of the area’s many restaurants. O Petit Club African has a menu of authentic West African specialties as well as weekend brunch and live music nights. Koyaka Kitchen sells take-away dishes from the Côte d’Ivoire and La Foret Noire or Les Delices du Sacre-Coeur serve great Nigerian food.
Top Photo: Chef Raoul, O Petit Club African